How to Change Violin or Viola Strings: A Beginner’s Guide

If you’re new to playing the violin or viola, you might not have had to change your strings yet. Strings wear out over time, and should be replaced when they begin unraveling or not sounding their best. Today, I’m showing you how to change violin or viola strings, step by step.

WATCH THE VIDEO

When should I change my strings?

Depending on who you ask, you might receive a different answer. Every 6-12 months or every 120 hours of playing is the most standard answer.

I once kept track of how long I played for an entire year. (That was stressful!) I changed my strings when the older ones lost their tone, and did the math–I had played on that set for exactly 202 hours.

Different brands of strings take different lengths of time to deteriorate. Some last longer, and some wear out quickly. If you notice the strings don’t “ring” as much as they used to, that’s a good indicator that they’re wearing out.

If you see a string unraveling, order a new one and change it quickly. Unraveled strings can injure your fingers, and they’re very likely to snap when tuning. An unraveled string is a definite sign that you should buy a new set!

If you’re a student, you can always ask your teacher about your specific situation. They hear you play often, and can probably notice when your strings should be refreshed.

What do I need to change violin strings?

To change your strings, you’ll need:

• Your instrument
• Your new set of strings
• A microfiber cleaning cloth
• A pencil
• A tuner

How long will this take?

Set aside a good hour or so if this is your first time changing strings. If you feel overwhelmed during the process, just do one or two strings–you can always do the rest tomorrow!

With my years of string changing experience, it probably takes me 15-20 minutes to restring my viola. I have a process down that works for me, and that’s what I’m sharing with you today!

Disclaimers!

Before we really get started, I want to address a few important disclaimers:

• Only remove and replace one string at a time.
  • The strings provide tension on the bridge. They keep everything in place. It’s safe to remove one (or two, at most) string at a time, but removing them all will likely cause the soundpost inside the instrument to collapse. If this happens, you’ll need to take the instrument to a luthier to have it put back into place.

• You may break a string in the process.
  • It’s very easy and common to break the E string (especially if you’re new to the violin) when tuning, especially if you accidentally tune the string too high, or if you tune it too quickly. Take everything slower than you think you need to, especially with the highest string. The E string is the most likely to break because it is the thinnest and has the most amount of tension.

Removing a string

I always start with the lowest string, and work one by one to get to the highest string. In the video, I was changing my violin strings, so I started with the G string. If I were changing my viola strings, I’d start with the C string.

Begin by finding the peg corresponding to the string. Twist the head of the peg towards you (as if tuning the string flatter) and pull out a bit to loosen the string. It should lose all tension, and may fall out of the tailpiece.

Pegs are tapered so that the end opposite of the head is thinner than the head end. So when you loosen the peg, pull out a bit, and when you tighten the peg, push in very gently to create a secure hold in the peg box.

Pull the string out from the holes in the peg and from the tailpiece. Set the string aside to put away in the envelope your new string is in–it’s always good to keep a backup set of strings in case one breaks!

After the string has been removed, take your pencil and draw a bit of lead into the grooves on the fingerboard (up at the nut–between the peg box and fingerboard) and on the bridge. Adding a bit of pencil lead helps lubricate the string and keep the bridge from moving and warping when the string is tuned and re-tuned.

I also take this opportunity to clean my fingerboard with my cloth. Our fingers leave a lot of oils behind, and there’s generally a bit of rosin built up on the fingerboard close to the bridge.

Putting on a new string

I start up at the peg. Place the peg back into the peg box, making sure it’s going the same direction as before. The bottom peg should have the head on the left; the one above that should be on the right; the one above that should be on the left; and the top peg head should be on the right.

Find the string you need. They should each be packaged separately and labeled. Stick the end of the string without the ball into the peg. I poke it through until it hits the back of the peg box. Slowly begin tightening the peg to wind the string around it. I hold my thumb on the string overtop the fingerboard to help keep everything neat. Keeping it wound in a neat way with no overlapping is better for the string.

Once the end of the winding (the colorful thread on the string) reaches the peg box, I secure the peg (push in very gently to create a seal) and see if the ball end of the string is by the holder on the tailpiece.

Each tailpiece is a bit different, and whether or not you have fine tuners can change how the strings attach to the tailpiece.

Your instrument will likely either have a hole/slit that you feed the string into and is held by the tension, or you will have a little holder that you push the string into, as close to the ball as you can. (The video has great closeup visuals of this!)

With my thumb still on the fingerboard to keep the peg-end of the string in place, I use my other hand to attach the string to the tailpiece. You’ll likely have a bit of extra, loose string that needs to be tightened in between the tailpiece and your thumb.

This is where the magic happens: I give my instrument a big hug! If you don’t like your instrument and would rather not give it a hug, you can just get another person to help you with this step.

I hold the tailpiece against my body to keep that end of the string taut, and then, with my thumb still in place, I use my other hand to finish tightening the peg until the string is fully strung and plays a pitch! (Keep the pitch low to avoid accidentally over tightening it!)

Tuning the new string

Now that the string is on, you can go ahead and tune it! Grab your tuner, and see where the string is at. I generally just pluck it rather than playing with my bow, because it’s faster.

Go slowly when you tune, especially if you’re new, and try not to go higher than the pitch you need. Get close to the pitch, and then use your fine tuners (if you have them) to get the rest of the way.

Fine tuner tip: when changing your strings, try to keep all of your fine tuners about halfway tight/loose. This will give you enough room to make adjustments either way when your strings inevitably go out of tune over the next week or so. If you’re about to retune with a peg, take a look at the fine tuner and be sure it’s not tightened all the way or fully loose and wobbly. If it is, tighten or loosen it until it’s about halfway!

Strings take some time to settle, so plan on tuning and re-tuning your instrument often over the next week or so. Don’t worry, this is completely normal and we all deal with it!

Repeat the process three more times until you have a full new set of strings on your instrument!

There you go! If you have any questions, leave a comment down below. I’m happy to help you out! It’s a little more helpful to see the visuals, so if you’re a little confused from just reading about the process, be sure to check out my video! Enjoy your fresh new strings!

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If you’re new to the violin or viola and are interested in lessons, check out my studio intro to see if I might be a good fit for you! Happy practicing!